Specifications

Joe glad to have you on board, we are looking forward to seeing the first Fly Rod for Team Caddis. heard alot of good things about you from Ammala, but I do guess fello Idahoans do have to stick together.. , no seriously its great to have you on board.

I'm working on the Team Caddis rod now. I'm in the middle of wrapping guides and everything is coming along nicely. It should look good and perform quite well once I get it done.

For anyone with questions about, or an interest in, custom rod building, I'll do my best to provide answers and advice. I've been doing this long enough that if I don't know the answer at least I know where to find it. I build pretty much any type of rod but I really build a lot of fly rods. I work with graphite, glass and bamboo. I also do restoration and repair work so don't hesitate to ask about your latest project rod. I'm looking forward to the discussions.

Thanks, Joe

Joe
I'm curious, a friend of mine has several old bamboo rods that he bought at a flea market for a reasonble price two of them are warp at the tip one angles to the left and the other one arches up from almost the 3/4 of the rod, is there any way he can perform the work himself or would he have to take the rod into someone like yourself, I thought maybe steaming the bent part might help as long as you can manage in getting it straight with a supporter as it is getting steam.?

I use dry heat from a heat gun or a hair dryer on the lowest setting to warm the bamboo and work the curve in the opposite direction until it is straight again. It is pretty easy to damage the rod but as long as you are careful it can be done by anyone (don't tell anyone, I need the work). The glues they had available in the vintage bamboo era were not the exceptional chemical concoctions we have today. Most were animal based which is why you see older rods with 100 intermediate wraps along the shaft...to reinforce the glue. I've never used steam and I would probably stay away from it only because I don't know for certain what will happen if you use it.

The cause of the set is stretched longitudinal fibers in the bamboo along the outside edge of the curve. Essentially, the fix is to stretch the fibers along the inside of the curve to match thereby re-establishing a straight section of bamboo. The odds are pretty good that the set will return some day. But, if your friend takes proper care of the rod, it will be much later than sooner and not nearly so bad.

Using dry heat on the lowest setting, do the following:

1. Either find something to rest one end of the rod section on that will hold it well enough to allow you to gently bend it back against the curve; or, prop up the heat source so you can hold the rod in your hands and pass it across the heat while applying pressure in the opposite direction on the curve with your thumbs. For example, I have a 5 foot length of fancy crown moulding with lots of grooves in it that will fit a variety of rod sizes really well. I also have a heat gun with a flat end that allows me to set it upright on the bench and work the bamboo back and forth across the heat. You can also clamp the heat source in a vise.

2. don't get the heat close enough to burn or scorch the bamboo. Warm the outside edge of the curve at the point where the bend is the most severe. Run the heat source back and forth along an 8-10 inch portion of the curve for 15-20 seconds; or, pass the bamboo back and forth through the heat for 15-20 seconds. As you are applying heat you should also be applying pressure to bend the rod section back against the curve and toward the straight. After you remove the heat, check your progress by sighting along the shaft.

I have seen flat boards with wooden pegs at odd angles and locations along the board to provide places to gently bend the rod using combinations of the pegs as levers. Also, long strips of wood with notches cut in them to use as levers for straightening. Both look like they would work well, but I just use my thumbs.

3. repeat step #2 as many times as it takes to return the rod to straight or nearly straight. Go slow, check often, do not overheat the rod. This is a lengthy process, don't hurry it.

4. check closely because you may find that as the curve begins to straighten out the direction of curvature changes a bit. You always want to be working directly opposite the bend. As it becomes straighter, the amount of bend will be less. Once in a while it is necessray to bend in the opposite direction beyond the straight to get a curve to end up straight. Be careful when bending not to apply too much pressure and break the bamboo. Slow and easy will do the trick.

In the case of your friend's rod where the curve goes toward the left, it will be necessray to check often and change direction to accommodate what is probably a compound curve. Same technique, just check often and adjust as needed. Hint: if this is realy bad curve to the left...more of a twist...you may want to clamp the tiptop in a vise and bend in the opposite direction as you very gently try to rotate the rod. Sometimes, this can remove the compound curve in one step by applying pressure from two directions at once.

The key to success is to take the curve out in exactly the opposite direction that it went into the bamboo. Once you have it straight again, let it sit overnight and check it the next day. Repeat the process if any of the curve has returned.

Either you'll get it or you won't. You might get it straight enough to make the rods useful again which is probably fine. If you just can't get it to work for you, I'd suggest taking it to a rod builder who probably has plenty of practice at this sort of thing.